Friday, January 27, 2023

"Have you eaten?" A love letter to rice.

Rice = Food = Life. 

Happiness is a warm bowl of rice. A beloved staple in all the warm parts of Asia, in some languages like Chinese and Japanese the word for rice, 飯, is the same as the word for food. 

Chinese greeting: Chi fan le ma? 吃飯了嗎? "Have you eaten?" = 'how are you?'
Japanese boasting: Asameshi mae! 朝飯前! "Could be done before breakfast!" = 'it's easy/a piece of cake!'


When you combine rice with pineapple, spices, and veggies and put it in a pineapple shell, as in northern Thailand, wonderful things happen...

In Japan and Taiwan, there's sticky rice. In India and Thailand, the jasmine or long grain variety. In China, it's kind of in between the two--moist, but not sticky. There's red rice, brown rice, even black rice (nutty and wonderful)...

The First Rice

We still don't know exactly when some hunter gatherer looked at a grassy wild rice plant and thought, "This could be something more!" But the earliest known rice has been found in the middle Yangtze River Valley of China, at about 14,000 years ago. (Wait a minute! That was during the Ice Age!!)

Like the woolly mammoths used to say:"吃飯了嗎?" 

Rice didn't arrive in Taiwan until about 6,000 years ago, and in Japan until about 3,000 years ago. In both cases rice was brought by immigrating farmer-fisher folk. Hunter gatherers who were making a good living off wild resources might have enjoyed a friendly bowl of rice during a visit, but might have been less interested in the hard labor involved - at least, not at first.


During Yayoi times around 2,500 years ago, farmers in southern Japan used nice slate harvesting knives. Microscopic analysis of wear patterns shows they pulled the edge along the rice head to remove the grains. 


Early rice probably looked like this red rice, bred from an ancient variety still found in monasteries of Japan! 

Rice grows OK on dry hillsides, but you can get more by planting it in wet places. First, folks just planted it at the edge of natural wetlands. But then rice paddies were invented!

Young rice in a Taiwan paddy glows emerald green.

Cool stuff you can do with rice

For first-timers, go ahead and invest in a rice cooker-it does all the thinking for you. But if you're old school, just rinse the rice of your choice and pour out the cloudy water. Hold the tip of your finger on top of the rice, and add fresh water till it reaches your second knuckle. This works for any quantity of rice.



Look out tupperware! Here come the rice cookers...

Bring to a moderate boil (don't walk off, it'll boil over), then bring down to low for about 7 minutes. Turn off the heat and let it cool. Now fluff it! If you're making sushi, be sure to use sushi rice. I warm about 1/8 cup of rice vinegar with a little sea salt and cane sugar till they dissolve. Then drizzle into the rice and gently mix in-- this adds flavor and encourages it to stick. Once it's cool, it's ready to roll!


Ahhhh sushi. If you don't have fancy fresh fish just use thinly sliced red peppers, carrots, cucumber, omelette strips, tofu, whatever. My go-to sauce is simply a bit of mayo mixed with sri racha. For sides/dipping don't forget the ginger, wasabi, and soy or tamari. For extra umph, squeeze fresh lime juice into the soy to make ponzu.

Last week, some cool friends here in Osaka invited me to a kiritanpo party! This is a popular winter soup in Akita Prefecture with a fun rice twist. Our hosts made a nice big batch of chicken soup ahead of time (any clear broth soup will do). 

They then mashed up some rice into a sticky dough. Dipping their hands in a little saltwater, they scooped a little handful of the dough and molded it around a small stick. You can use a chopstick, but a thicker one is better. Traditionally the little cattail looking rice sticks are toasted over glowing coals, but you can also fry them till browned in a skillet. 


Kiritanpo literally means 'tip of a practice spear' (the cotton padding resembles a fluffy dandelion seed). Cool, huh?  
It's party time! Regular Japanese homes are still floor-level; all furniture is about 1 ft high. That way little guys like Riku here are in the middle of the action...

After the kiritanpo were browned, they were gently pulled off the stick, chopped diagonally, placed in a bowl, piping hot soup was ladled over, and flakes of red chiles were added. 


We ate bowl after bowl! With a lot of sake!! I'm so adding this to my party recipe lineup. Thank you, rice.


Monday, January 16, 2023

He Used His Noodle.

From Square to Cup: Ramen Revisited

OK, so a few blogs back I dissed instant ramen noodles. I shouldn't have. Because behind each blocky little  packet, behind each little styrofoam cup, is a legend. 

Some people invent electric light, or penicillin, or rockets to the moon. That's cool ... but we have to thank one person's mad scientist vision - and his wife's sense of humor - for instant ramen and the apex of noodle evolution, the Cup of Noodles.

Cue the 2001: A Space Odyssey soundtrack. 

The simplicity is breathtaking: All you need is hot water, and something to pull the noodles out with. On camping trips, I have used two twigs like chopsticks. Cup Noodles is salty, filling, and there are peas and carrots and those funky spongey egg bits and mystery meat. Belly filled. 

Who was the Mad Genius Behind the Cup of Noodles?

The man we now call Momofuku Ando was born Go Pek-Hok (吳百福) in Taiwan during the Japanese colonial period in 1910. Yes, that is a Hoklo name from SE China! I am distantly related to this guy!

Mr. Go moved to Japan after 1945 and married a Japanese woman. He changed his first name to Momofuku, and took his wife's last name of Ando. He then embarked on a series of failed business ventures.

Young, handsome, broke. 

Post war Japan had no rice...but lots of wheat from the American military. Back then Japanese folks weren't crazy about bread, but they formed long lines outside noodle houses. Ando decided that the world was ready for a new concept: noodles on-the-go. 

The Ando kitchen hut where it all happened, lovingly reconstructed in the Cup Noodles Museum. The chickens lived out back.

The first challenge: dried noodles that would soften with hot water. Ando couldn't get it to work until he watched his wife Masako making making tempura. When you fry dough it dries and forms teeny holes; then boiling water can go in the holes to rehydrate the dough.

Ando's hand-cranked noodle maker. 

With broth made from backyard chickens, Ando tried dozens of methods to make a dried soup-noodle combo. The kitchen hut was plastered with notes taped to the walls, and he ran around town on his bike picking up ingredients.

I don't think he *really* wore a white labcoat in the kitchen. But you gotta love the staged photo.

As Seen on Television.

After years of trial and error...it worked!! The first instant noodle "Chikin Ramen" was launched in the early 1950s in the familiar plastic square packet. 

It took off like a rocket, with TV ads of smiling women in hairnets and labcoats packing boxes to send to a grocery store near you...

Primitive Noodle packet c. 1952.

c. 1960s: Just because you *can* serve ramen with lemon slices and maraschino cherries doesn't mean you *should*.

The next level was to make a self contained cup of noodles. After more years of sleepless nights, and the fevered invention of a whole new kind of styrofoam as well as machines to pack the noodles, the "Cup Noodles" in the form that we know it, was born. 

By the time this amazing man died in 2007 at the age of 96, more than 98 billion cups of noodles had been sold. Astronauts munched noodles in space. 

This Story Needs to Be Told.

So today there is a lovely museum where you can learn all this and more, right here in Osaka where it happened!

The entry way of this awesome museum.

Have you ever wondered what a cup of noodles looks like in cross-section? I know I have.

At the Cup Noodles Museum, you can make your very own customized cup of noodles with personal artwork and everything. Yay!!

Japanese kids LOVE this place.

A friendly lady helped me to make my personal Cup of Noodles: Curry broth, peas, shrimp, and scallions.

With the finished sealed product, in front of a wall with cups labelled in dozens of different languages.


A roll-out photo of my noodle-slurping dragon design. Do you like it?

Long after the Earth is a cold burned out cinder, there will be a Cup of Noodles down there with the ammonoids and cell phones. (Cool sculpture near the front door.)

Here's where you can learn more about Mr. Ando:

https://www.nissin.com/en_jp/about/founder/

And here is the Museum's website. If you are in Osaka you really need to come and experience this!! 

https://www.cupnoodles-museum.jp/en/osaka_ikeda/


Haiku.

Momofuku san:

Mad genius noodle maker,

you inspire us all.



Saturday, January 7, 2023

Deer, Temples, and an Enchanted Forest

 

Nara is AMAZING.

So...last weekend to celebrate the new year I travelled to Nara. One of Japan's most ancient capitals, established more than 1,200 years ago. During Europe's long Dark Ages, Japan was an eager young nation building huge capital cities and often governed by women Emperors.

Buddhism was still relatively new to Japan in the 700s. An Emperor Shomu decided to build an immense Buddha statue, and a hall big enough to hold it! I burned incense there during a visit with my friend and colleague, Atsushi Nobayashi, and his family.

Tōdai-ji: The great hall houses the largest bronze Buddha in the world.  

In all his glory: Daibutsu is nearly 50 ft. tall-- seated! There was a special ceremony to paint his eyes, during which his powers flowed into the sculpture.

A Sacred and Natural Beauty 

Nara is renowned for its intact natural landscapes. including an enormous park and a sacred forest that has not been logged, nor hunted, for more than 800 years. 


The forest temple of Kasugataisha, built in 768 AD, was constructed at the order of Empress Shōtoku, an ambitious and capable ruler. It's known for thousands of stone and bronze lanterns.

Well, I don't know about you but the thought of hiking through this sacred forest, which is populated by sika deer that are tame and curious, was irresistable.

Equipped with a flask of green tea, wearing sneakers and a baseball hat, I started the climb while the morning sun slanted through the huge old trees and flakes of frost floated down...

The great trees of the sacred Kasugayama Forest, a few hundred meters in from the trailhead.

Pure chlorophyll. Princess Mononoke would feel at home here

Winter Treats in Nara

I was fuelled for this hike by a beautiful meal the evening before. Atsushi, his wife Aoko, and three kids treated me to a dinner of seasonal winter foods. Symbolic traditional Japanese New Year foods are considered good for your health in the new year. 

The magic of a good Japanese meal, besides its deliciousness, lies in its seasonality and freshness; the array of small and flavorful dishes coming in a sequence (instead of all heaped together); and the aesthetic beauty of the presentation. Check it out:

To open your tastebuds, pickled sweet and tangy vegetables. The root veggie has the character for 'rabbit' for the upcoming Year of the Rabbit.

Exquisite clear soup, with winter crab and thinly sliced root vegetables garnished with yuzu citron peel.

Fresh, tender sashimi (tuna, squid, and yellowtail) paired with wasabi and a tangy, spicy shiso (perilla) leaf. OMG.

Kuromame, sweet black beans with flecks of real gold leaf. Yes, you can eat it! This dish is sweet and slightly savory.

Golden shirako or cod milt soup. Like the most delicate custard. If you don't know what milt is, look it up...

Messengers of the Gods Always Have the Munchies.

On my way down the mountain, the deer were everywhere, chipper and hungry. They're friendly because they've never been harmed by humans. These little deer are messengers of the Shinto gods.

They normally graze, but you can buy deer crackers (鹿せんべい, shika senbei) which are made of rice bran and grains that are healthy and sugar free. Proceeds from the shika senbei go to habitat preservation. 

鹿のおやつください?
Deer snacks, kudasai?


More deer snacks, kudasai?
YUMMM. If you'd like to donate to help maintain the forest animals, you can do it here: https://www.1jpn.org/donate-for-wild-animals.html

What do you mean, you ran out of shika senbei??


Haiku:
Small forest spirit
Peeks at me, inquisitive.
What is your message?










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