Autumn is soup time.

Soup's on!

Since I arrived in Taiwan we have been enjoying a variety of soups. (Now, before I go further, full disclosure: when eating in riotous Asian family groupings it's really hard to stay vegetarian, let alone vegan.)

OK, back to soup. The first settlers to arrive on Taiwan from China in the late 16th and early 17th centuries were from the southeast coast, in what is now Fujian Province. They were and remain seafood specialists, and rice is the main crop. 

A tiny beef noodle soup joint on Wuquan South Street, a couple blocks from Dad's place. A customer favorite.

Homesick Newcomers 

But soldiers fleeing the victorious Communist government in 1949 were raised in China's cooler, drier heartland, on wheat based noodles, beef, and scallions. From these homesick Guomintang soldiers, most of whom never returned, was born Taiwan's beef noodle soup.  

Taiwan's beloved national soup: Niu Rou Mian, 牛肉麵.

Beef is stewed for days in a rich broth that is informed by garlic, ginger, and a version of five spice flavors until it literally falls apart on your chopsticks. Fresh noodles are boiled al dente, and doused with the beef broth and big chunks of beef, as well as greens like baby bok choi. The bowlful is topped off with fresh scallions. It's customary to offer pickled turnips or radishes as a tangy side dish to wake up your taste buds. 

Just the thing for a cool, breezy autumn evening, with leaves rattling and a full moon rising...