Stunning Autumn in Japan: And Some Buckwheat Noodles!

 

Sumimasen...I'm new around here...

From the tropical splendor and mystique of Thailand to a very different vibe in Japan--I've begun my six month research sabbatical at the National Museum of Ethnology (study of human cultures). 

My name in lights...well, on an office door!

Neighborhood Temples

Osaka is lovely in November, a little bit like the mountains of Tennessee with fall colors everywhere. Kasuga Shrine, first built in the 9th century and rebuilt several times since, is about 15 minutes walk from my little dorm room. 

It is nestled into the hillside with colorful trees, a swaying bamboo grove, and a little spring seeping down. The silence on a rainy autumn Sunday is beautiful. 

Small mountain shrine at the temple, with crimson Japanese maple leaves.

Gingko leaves glow green and yellow above an old cistern.

A small trough with purplish maple leaves. The maples here are stunning.

Origami cranes, or tsuru (鶴), at the temple. The legend goes, if you fold 1,000 of them and are virtuous, your wish will come true...

Buckwheat - it's not just for pancakes.

On a crisp fall evening, I went to a little place that specializes in soba or buckwheat. This delightful grain is beloved of Japanese and Korean chefs. It is used to make a savory warm tea, cookies, and famous soba noodles. 

 

The soba special--with pickles, bottomless buckwheat tea, and fragrant rice.  

The soup was to die for: a warm, gently spiced broth infused with wild mushrooms and the chewy, nutty soba noodles combined with wild greens, crispy fresh carrots, and scallions. It made the walk home through blowing leaves nice and warm!